Villa la Madonnina: Our favorite restaurants

Villa la Madonnina: OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

If I like a restaurant it is not only for its good food - prepared with fresh ingredients - it's the combination of the quality of food and wine but as much the friendliness of the waiter or owner and a beautiful setting. So don't expect 3 star sophisticated meals when you follow the recommendation of one of my favorite restaurants. There are also high profile restaurants at the Amalfi coast, you find them in a guide.
We personally like Italian and especially local dishes like fish, good pasta, fresh vegetables and wonderful tasty Mozzarella, which is produced only a few kilometers away. Fresh Mozzarella -this means delivered that morning - has a taste which is not comparable to what ever you get in best shops outside the area around Napels. Its marvelous! We prefer the mozzarella fior di latte - not the more famous mozzarella di buffalo. The mozzarella fior di latte is produced a few miles away in Agerola, up in the Lattari mountains - the mountains of milk.
As we often have a boat to roam along the coast I have added also a selection of some restaurants we like very much and which have a service to take care of the boat when you arrive. As we have found very early our favorites we did not try many of the restaurants accessible by boat. Again any feedback is welcome. See our finds below under Restaurants accessible by boat.
Beside my favorites there are many restaurants along the Amalfitana coast and there are definitely other gems we did not find so far. As the overall quality of restaurants in this area is good, you don't run a risk to try other ones. Therefore its worthwhile to go out on your own discovery tour! I appreciate your feedback.
In most restaurants you can order in English, so language is not a problem. Attention, many of our favorite restaurants don't accept credit cards! They want to get real money!
Go to Restaurants in:
- Praiano and Marina di Praia
- Amalfi
- Furore
- Positano/Montepertuso
- Capri
- Atrani
- Restaurants which can be reached by boat

Restaurants: Praiano
La Brace: A restaurant with a fabulous view down the coast.

Try to get a window table on at the window front of the restaurant. The view from there is stupendous. On clear days you see the whole coastline till Positano and in more distance the Isle of Capri with the Faraglione islands. We have spent some evenings there where the incredible sunset took away all our attention from the food. See the picture! We enjoyed being there in all seasons. In winter when its dark in the evening you see the lights from Positano.

The owner is Giovani who runs this place. Fish is good, it is bought directly from the fisherman in nearby Marina di Praia. Try "antipasti misti" which gives you a bit from everything. Pizza is also very good here! And those who like sometimes chicken get it here too. Service has its ups and downs.
Address: Main street in Praiano or more precise in Vettico Maiore which is the part of the town which starts after the 3rd tunnel. Its on the right side, the parking lot is on the left. Its open all the year, every day, with the exception of a few weeks in January and February. Tel: 089 874226.

La Gavitella:
Combine a romantic boat trip in the evening along the coast with a dinner in a good (mainly fish) restaurant and a fantastic view to Positano and the coast as far as Capri. Fish is excellent there, as one of the owners is the owner of the fish shop at the crossing before Amalfi. You should try the special gelato - icecream - as a dessert. Nuts, peaches, pears and other fruits are hallowed out, the gelato is prepared with the "meat" of the fruits, then the gelato is filled into the paring and frozen. Very good. For a unique experience ask them to pick you up from the platform below the villa and they bring you by boat to the restaurant and back. The drive along the coast in the night (this would be our suggestion) seeing all the lights of the houses along the coast is an unforgettable experience. If the waves are too high to pick you up directly at platform of the villa, you meet the boat in Marina the Praia, where the sea is normally calmer. Call them for reservation and arrangement of the boat trip: 089 8131319. Open all days. They speak English. If you are 4 persons or more the boat trip should be included in the price for the meal. But better confirm. In 2007 the restaurant is open till October 14. See also their web site: La Gavitella You can also walk there starting from the church in Praiano, just below the bar del sole. It takes about 20 minutes to go there, its a nice walk down, worthwhile also to also without having a meal there.The challenge howeveris to walk back up the hill after a good meal.

Restaurants: Marina di Praia

This wild romantic, beautiful narrow valley with palms is close to the Villa la Madonnina. It takes only 10 minutes to walk there, but you also can take the car and park close to the beach.
There are several restaurants - actually seven - which are all special because of their settings. Most of them are run by families. Its quite difficult to make a fair recommendation as all have their merits. Food is good in all of them. Some are in fantastic setting difficult to find elsewhere in the world. Some are open the whole year long. Therefore let me describe some characteristics to enable you do make your choice.
Our number one choice here is the restaurant Il Pirata (the pirate). From there you have a spectacular view towards the coast leading to Conca di Marini. See the picture.

You also see the Villa la Madonnina and can see if you are at home (don't be confused this is typical Austrian/Tyrolean humor). Both are close to the water. You reach this restaurants by following the path on the right side of the bay looking towards the sea. If you want to have your lunch served directly at the sea platform of La Madonnina, you can call Il Pirata (tel: 089 87 4377) and ask to bring the meal. But they only do it if they are not too busy and somebody is available for bringing it and the waves are not too high. Give them enough time when ordering the meal. Il Pirata is closed starting from October. See also the web site of Il Pirata (Italian only). When the weather is warm we very much like to sit in the Il Pirata and watch the last rays of sun vanishing high on the mountains, later it gets darker, you see the lights from the few houses along the coast and at the end enjoy the 15 minute walk home. Get a feeling how it looks like by looking at these photos. Unfortunately I cannot give you a taste of the excellent meal which accompanies the gorgeous panorama! The photos below where taken, when the restaurant Cala Paradise was higher up the hill, below the tower. Now they serve the food close to the sea, behind the restaurant Il Pirata.
We did not try their food yet.
Up the hill with a great view is the restaurant of the hotel Onda Verde which also serves very good food.

The view is very much the same as you see in these photos. Another advantage is that it is open all year. Tel: 089 874143

Another restaurant is the Trattoria da Armandio which is situated directly in Marina di Praia. It looks very basic and it is very small. You sit outside. The restaurant is built into the rock. Food is good and the owner Armandio is very friendly. He speaks quite good English. It must be recommended by an American guidebook because quite some Americans go there and exchange there their travel experiences. Its on right side of the valley (looking to the sea). Tel: 089 874 087. Closed in winter.
The Trattoria La Conchilia has two advantages: its open all the year and when you can sit outside you have a the view from the three tables on the veranda. See the picture which was taken in January. (its not us, it was a nice Swedish couple, who had already taken "our" table. My wife Julia likes especially the spaghetti alle vongole there. You find it on the left side of the valley at the end of the parking area.
The restaurant Alfonso a Mare is situated directly in the bay, has also a nice view and it is the only restaurant in Marina di Praia which serves - beside local specialties - pizza. Tel. 089 874091. They have also a nice web site www.alfonsoamare.it where you can read the history of the house and see typical dishes they offer. It is open throughout the year.

Restaurants: Amalfi
Ristorante Lido Azurro:
Very nice position in the harbor of Amalfi with a great view to Amalfi. They serve very good, especially very good seafood.
Make a reservation if you want to get a table in the first row, close to the water. Tel. 089871384.

Trattoria casalinga Da Baraccha:

Already the first time we went dining in Amalfi we discovered this restaurant in the Piazza dei Dogi in Amalfi. And since then it has stayed our favorite in Amalfi. Its situated off the main street but very close to the Piazza del Duomo on a wonderful small piazza which has still the unspoiled charm of a typical old Italian square. It is small but it has a vegetable shop, a cloth shop, our favorite, nice hardware shop, some bars and a tiny shop where we bought some from our point of view nice and small paintings from Amalfi and the surroundings in order to keep the Amalfi dream also alive when we are at home. Some paintings in oil are painted by the owner himself.
The restaurant is owned by the Amandola family. One brother is in the kitchen, Antonio and the next generation of Amandolas Mario, Luigi,… do the service. The sometimes strict boss is Bartolo who lures the people passing by into the restaurant. He invented the “breathing” restaurant: in summer at the beginning of the evening there are only two rows of tables outside on the piazza. As soon they are full the plants in the front of the tables are moved a bit further and new tables are brought from inside. This continues till no tables are available to be brought out and then the restaurant covers a big part of the piazza. From a marketing point of view an excellent approach because the newcomers always see a full restaurant which seems to be a good recommendation. And it is a good recommendation. Enjoy typical Italian food and a very family service. I personally like most the polipi (polyps) in forno (full size squids in a tomato sauce). Take the house wine its good. Meat fans also find a good dish though not comparable with a good American steak. Since recently two things diminish somehow our enthusiasm for this restaurant: a singer of Napolitanean songs which is for our taste too loud and the new too bright lamps installed in the square.
Address: Amalfi, Piazza dei Doci (this is a few steps from the main piazza in front of the Duomo towards west). Open all year only closed for a few weeks. Closed on Wednesday. Tel: 089/871285
Trattoria Pizzeria Da Meme: This restaurant is in the old part of Amalfi, which gives you the impression as if you are in an Arabian casbah. Very narrow alleyways. You find it when you walk the main street into Amalfi up the valley, you pass the piazza del duomo and then after about 150 m (200 yards) there is a signpost which leads you to the left up the hill. This restaurant was recommended to me by a friend. Up to now I only saw it from the outside and did not test it yet. Any feedback is welcome. Address: salita marino sebaste, 8

Restaurants: Furore
Da Bacco: Its about 10 km (6 miles) to drive there but worth the effort. You drive east in the direction of Amalfi, then before Amalfi take the road to Agerola. The roads winds up with many curves to Furore. There you find Da Bacco on the right side of the road. It offers great view down to the sea, excellent food, with many local specialties, wine from the own vineyard and moderate prices. In all gastronomically guides I have seen its very much recommended. The best quality/price relationship of all restaurants we know at the coast. Try for instance a local specialty: totani e patate (Cuttlefish and potatoes). They also have a good selection of typical local cheese produced in nearby Agerola. Open all year. Tel: 089 830360.

Restaurants: Positano/Montepertuso
La Tagliata in Montepertuso high above Positano: Excellent food (mainly meat) and a wonderful view down to Positano.
If you feel that you have eaten enough fish or prefer anyway meat than this place is an excellent choice, but they also serve fish from the grill. Simplicity, good quality of the food and friendly service are the successful ingredients for this very popular restaurant. The menu is quite short: different meat - including a "big boy" giant bistecca Fiorentina very well comparable to the best American steak - or sausages or both of them mixed as a main dish. You can watch the meet/fish grilled on a big grill in the room. You should also try the appetizer (antipasti della casa). If you are not that hungry better share the plate between two persons because you get a rich plate with ham, salami, mozzarella and mixed pickles.
Its famous and very popular, therefore reservation is recommended during the season. Try to get a seat in the garden if its good weather or close to the window when its colder. You have a fantastic view down to Positano. Driving the very narrow road to Montepertuso and even more going back by night "encouraged" by some wine can be quite a challenge. Therefore we have a special arrangement for our clients: Call the restaurant and ask them to pick you up at the villa with a taxi and bring you back after lunch or dinner. You only pay one trip at a fixed price of 30 Euro. If you prefer to drive yourself go first to Positano, pass it and take the road to Montepertuso, then after the "center" of Montepertuso, when you almost think you have missed it, the restaurant is on the right side. Open all year. In the lower season closed on Thursday. Tel.: 089 875872. Credit cards accepted.
Le tre sorelle: Located directly at the beach of Positano. It were three sisters (sorelle) who started this restaurant and gave the name to the restaurant. Closed on Wednesday, accept credit cards. Tel 089 811922. Open all year.
Trattoria San Corce:

in Nocelle, a small hamlet high above Positano - after Montepertuso - at the end of the road. Good
local food but no big choice. Try the mixed antipasti, with mozarella, salami...excellent. Ideal if combined with a walk of the sentiero degli Dei. You have a great view down to the coast and Positano. Tel.:089 8111260

Restaurants: Capri
There are many good restaurants in Capri. Here I describe and recommend two which we like both for the good food, unique location and friendly service. Both are outside the busy center of Capri. One is on the way to the Arco Naturale the other one at the seaside below the Villa Axel Munthe.
Le Grottelle: On the eastern side of the main piazza of Capri you follow a street first in the direction to the villa Jovi, then to the right to the Arco Naturale (an rock arch). Fast you leave the busy center of Capri and it gets quiet, you pass nice villas after 20 -30 minutes you before reaching the arch there is the ristorante Le Grottelle. Build into the rock, with a nice terrace, a beautiful view down to the sea - a very nice position. Its a family restaurant. The cooking is done by the mother - its outstanding - and service is excellent. I recommend that in the season you reserve a table. Tel 081 8375719
You can continue your walk to see the Arco Naturale, then go back and walk down (quite steep) the steps of the path which leads you first down, then above the coast back to Capri. A wonderful very scenic walk.

Bagni Tiberio:

We usually go there by boat. When we rent a motorboat in Amalfi (see Info) we drive along the beautiful Amalfi coast, then to Capri, we pass the harbor Marina Grande and then before coming to the Blue Grotto - after about 2 km - you see a restaurant at the seaside with a public beach close by. The first good thing is that they have a "valet" serving for parking your boat. You just get closer to the beach and wave, they will pick you up with a boat, bring you at land. You are sitting on a nice verandah built just above the remains of a roman bath, in which the Roman emperor Tiberius took a bath already 2000 years ago. He had several palaces on Capri.
Food -mainly sea food- is also very good in this restaurant. Especially the antipasti - both seafood and vegetables - are very, very good. 081 8377688. If - after the fit for a nice hike, you leave the boat there and climb up the hill and after an hour or so you reach the famous villa of Axel Munthe - after climbing the 555 steps of the "Phoenician" flight of steps. He is a Swedish doctor who built a fantastic villa on top of the ruins of a villa of the Roman emperor Tiberius. It is full of antiques and is positioned on the cliff with a fabulous view. He also wrote a book about his live which became a best seller: The story of San Michele. Very worth while to read.

Restaurants: Atrani
Osteria "da Luisella":
Atrani is definitely a place very worth while visiting, nothing spectacular but a beautiful, genuine old town built in a valley that leads up to the area between Scala and Ravello. It is a hidden gem on the Amalfi coast. It seems that tourism did not discover it yet. May be because there is no Duomo one can visit like in Amalfi, no shopping capabilities like in Positano, but still it has a very special charm. We like the small Piazza Umberto in the center very much. There is a restaurant the Osteria "da Luisella". You can sit outside, with view to the piazza or inside. Outside it is quite loud, as in the evening scooters and motorbikes pass by - sometime with considerable noise. But you feel you are in Italy and the food is o.k. but not great.

Restaurants: reached by boat
There are many restaurants along the coast, directly at the sea. Often the phone number is displayed on the restaurant, so you can call them and ask to send a boat. In most times a boat is waiting already, or is coming if you wave. f there are different boats from different restaurants choose the one you want to visit. In all cases they will show you a boye, you fix your boat there and they bring you to the restaurant. A small tip at your return for the "marinaio" is appropriate.
Here some we like most:

Da Adolfo, betweem Praiano and Positano, Ristorante da Alfonso

just below the hotel San Pietro. It is the restaurant side to side with a bigger one. It is in a cove, where pirates used to build their boats. Nowadays a very popular restaurant for the chick people who come by boat from Positanto and the Italians from the beach. Try the local speciality totani e patate. A stew of local squids, potatoes and tomatoes. Looks very basic, but it has a very relaxed atmosphere and very good food. Tel: 089875022. In summer reservation is recommended. Web site: www.daadolfo.com Every half an hour a boat with the read fish leaves from Positano beach to the restaurant. Look for the boat with the read fish. You can also walk down to the restaurant from the hamlet Luisella just before reaching the hotel San Pietro.

Conca del Sogno, Reccommone, close to Nerano:

Together with the Gavitella arguable the best restaurant along the coast in a beautiful setting. Conca del Sogno means Bay of the dreams and both the panoramic position as well as the food and service lives up to name. Franco one of the owners will welcome you in his pirate fashion look. He will tell you what they can offer. He does it so fast that it is difficult to follow even if he does it in English. So ask him to slow down and explain. We normally dont arrive at the main course because we try different antipasti of the sea cold and warm, like small fish, small squids, totani e patate (local squid and potatoes) and so on. We try 6 or 7 different dishes and then with a bottle of white wine - we prefer the white wine called Kratos a Fiano from Paestum, Campagna. Tel. 089 871384. In summer reservation is recommendedYou reach the restaurant by boat, going from Praiano to the west, you will pass Positano and then after some miles there are some small non inhabited islands close to the coast you find the restaurant in a bay. You can reach it by car but it is a long ride via.
They have nice web site: www.concadelsogno.it

Bagni di Tiberio in Capri: description above.

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